Well, readers, I am back from a much-needed vacation -- and took Lady Muqawama on her first visit to the Arabic-speaking world. We arrived in Casa Blanca and over the course of a week visited Rabat, Fez, and Tangier, spending three nights in the latter as we stayed for a friend's annual party weekend. In Fez, allow me to recommend the excellent Riad al-Bartal (maybe the coolest hotel in which I have ever stayed), while in Tangier I remain a fan of the Dar Nour in the Kasbah. In Rabat, I stayed with my friend Issandr, who passed along this, ahem, interesting map of the Middle East.
Now that I am back, expect normal blogging service to resume.

“There’s a wonderful term in ornithology that is perfect for the kind of people that end up here,” said Elena Prentice, an American painter and philanthropist who lives in Tangier. “They are called accidentals, birds that end up in an area they don’t really belong. Everyone in Tangier is some form of accidental.”
THE French cut off the medina with three cordons of troops, through which no Arab could escape. Inside the medina were detachments of Foreign Legionnaires, colonial infantry with tanks, barefoot Berber goumiers, whose hatred of the Arabs is legendary, and French police from whose wrists swung weighted truncheons. Police men, working with maps, split the medina into half a dozen sectors. Then the legionnaires, working systematically, began breaking down the doors of every house.
Once a door was smashed, in went the goumiers and drove out every male, except small boys. Women cried out in terror, and were beaten back with clubs or gun butts.
On top of a low hill in Port Lyautey's medina is a dusty sheep market. Legionnaires drove the Arab men there and herded them under the muzzle of a Patton tank. A dozen policemen formed a gauntlet, six on either side. One by one, the Arabs were thrust forward, each with his hands on his head.
"Entrez done, Monsieur," said a reserve police colonel. "The session is about to begin." He smiled broadly, then hit a middle-aged Arab with his right fist, below the belt. As the Arab went down, the colonel kneed him in the groin. The Arab tried to get up; another cop caught him across the jaw with a club. Down went the Arab and the next cop kicked him, twice. He got up again and ran into the arms of still another policeman, who poked him into a sitting position with the muzzle of a carbine.
Abu Muqawama has been searching in vain for something in the news to highlight today, but the only thing being covered in most newspapers is Hillary Clinton's continuing and hilarious efforts to get John McCain elected president. That said, via Angry Arab, Abu Muqawama came across this report from TIME Magazine's correspondent in Morocco, in 1954, on the brutal counterinsurgency tactics employed to pacify one of the troublesome Arab quarters. The fact that this particular quarter was in Port Lyautey (now Kenitra) is ironic.* Hubert Lyautey -- along with Bugeaud and Gallieni -- was one of the first theorists of population-centric counterinsurgency. (There is a good chapter on him in Paret's Makers of Modern Strategy, authored by Douglas Porch.)